In the wise words of my 4 year old nephew from across the dinner table at Thanksgiving last month with his fork in hand and a full plate in front of him- LETS DO THIS.
It all began on the flight from Miami where I was lucky enough to sit beside two individuals that I spent most of the time trying to understand the dynamic of their relationship and the rest of the time trying to focus mindlessly on my coloring book. Back to the couple though- I was okay with them until the immigration forms came around and I let them borrow my pen. Now. The male half of the couple was no more than 25 years old. A true baby face. The female- after I crept on her passport as she was filling out the immigration form, which I felt I had the right to do since she was borrowing my pen after all- was a bold 53 years of age. Initially I thought they were son and mother.. Until the canoodling began. So. That foiled my observation. BUT HEY- you do you, folks.
Anyway- long story short, baby face used my pen first but instead of taking about 10 minutes or so to fill out the forms and then pass it on to the cougar so she could fill out her forms- NO. He took all the way from Havana to Cozumel to fill out the damn form. I know this because I find way too much enjoyment in obsessively tracking the progress of my international flights. There's just something about watching that little picture of a plane follow the little line running from departure point to destination that brings me joy. Sometimes I like to imagine that there is a little cartoon Emilie dancing on the plane graphic. Yes, after reading that I am as surprised as you are that I have any friends at all. No worries. I know what you were thinking before that though- "Emilie, I have no idea how long the journey from Havana to Cozumel is via the open air space." I anticipated this issue, so I present this to increase your understanding:
I really just wanted my pen since I had experienced two colored pencils tragedies and gave up on my coloring book at this point. What I did not want was baby face taking 45 minutes to fill out his damn immigration form.
Moving on.
So on Saturday I landed at the airport outside of Belize City and one reggae filled taxi journey later I found myself at the water taxi station and patiently awaited the next water taxi out to the tiny island of Caye Caulker where I stayed Saturday evening. If I thought it was warm in Miami, I was sorely mistaken. I easily sweat off the peanut butter crackers I had on the plane while anxiously waiting the arrival of the ferry.
I moseyed around the pier while waiting and it hit me dead in the face (which I don't know why it didn't during the very flavorful reggae taxi ride I had just experienced) THAT I AM IN BELIZE. Like, Belize people. This is the site that helped me have that realization:
I mean, come on-
To be honest, when I arrived it was beautiful and all but I was closing in on being awake for 17 hours most of which had been spent navigating methods of travel- plane, bus, boat, taxi, tram- and all I really wanted was a beer, food and bed. And that was the plan. Until I met Frankie, Adam, Karston, Liz, Haley, Sarah, Jennifer and Isabella. So. Needless to say that after I inhaled my dinner of lobster with coconut rice and black eyed peas my quiet evening in with an early bedtime turned into a wonderful evening out and about on the tiny island.
The next morning I found breakfast curtesy of Benedict, the chef (I use that term lightly) where I was staying. One omelet later I found myself washing dishes while singing 'Strawberry Wine' at the top of my lungs alongside Benedict as I simultaneously watched the little girl in the shack next door brush her teeth over the railing of the front stoop. That's when the real, feel-it-in-the-depths-of-your-soul, all-encompassing happiness hit me. Right in that moment.
The exact feeling I have been chasing the past few weeks. It hit me in that moment after not even 24 hours in this country. It happened. I live for the moments like that when I am validated in my knowing that travel is what rejuvenates me. Travel is my self care in it's purest form.
On my journey that morning about the island I encountered a man just hacking away at some coconuts he had just gotten down from the tree above and I literally stopped dead in my tracks and watch him hack away with that extremely capable machete. At one point I realized I was just staring at him working with a creepy smile on my face. I imagine I looked like some kind of sociopath just watching a man hack away at coconuts with a giant machete while I smiled wildly at the events. But hey, I've come to terms with my inherent awkwardness. It's time you all did as well.
After a morning about the island I caught the water taxi back inland and found my way to the bus terminal to catch the next bus to the jungle- San Ignacio. Now, I could say "hey guys, I caught a bus and it was a two hour ride" but we all know there's no fun in that. So let me breakdown the bus ride for you because it was the most magical bus ride I have ever taken. Here's the visual to get rolling around in your mind:
Imagine if you will, spry Emilie traveling on a 1980s era Blue Bird school bus with roughly 75 or 80 of her closest friends while we journey through the jungle. Windows down, sweat just kind of rolling around in places it probably shouldn't be and this particular playlist is filling the airspace very loudly around me via the surprinsgly modern sound system the bus was outfitted with:
Summer of '69
I Do it for You
Can't Stop Loving You
It Must Have Been Love
All Night Long
Eye of the Tiger
The Final Countdown
It was like a Bryan Adams and Phil Collins had seduced me into a dream filled with magical tunes from the 1980s. But that was just the first leg of the journey. When we stopped in Belmopan at the halfway point we took a musical turn and the rest of the trip we were all in the throws of an 80's Rom Com as these delicious melodies filled the sweaty air space:
Girls Just Want to Have Fun
Heaven is a Place on Earth
The Lady in Red
Time After Time
It was as if we picked up Cyndi Lauper herself at the bus terminal in Belmopan. Needless to say this was the best bus ride I have ever taken. Hands. Down.
What made it even better was the free concert that myself and British couple sitting in front of me provided for the rest of the bus as we shamelessly belted out every tune with an unmatched enthusiasm for the duration of the 2.5 hour trip. You're welcome fellow travelers. You. Are. Welcome.
All of that fun brought me to where I am today as I am writing this post in order to keep you all informed of my life- San Ignacio. Or as I have come to refer to it- the jungle. Wonderful things have happened in San Ignacio. Met some great people, done some outdoorsy things and I've even had tacos. So we all know I am one happy individual in this moment. Because tacos.
Here's a few snapshots since I know it's been a pinch wordy in this post. I can't help it. I just have so many fantastical stories I want to share with all of your eager eyes. Embrace it.
Took a trip across the only suspension bridge in the entire country yesterday, Hawkesworth Bridge
Paused on the "new bridge" to have a local take my photo because we all have to have moments of vanity. I also needed to document that I was actually here in this country and not just providing pictures for you all that I Google searched to copy and paste.
I took a stroll a few miles outside of town to see Branch Mouth which is where the Mopan River and the Macal River become one in a very natural form of water matrimony and continue on to become known as the Belize River which runs all the way back out to the coast and inevitably, the sea.
I realize the picture does not do it nearly enough justice, but I beg your forgiveness. I did meet a gentleman named Matias and his sons Marvin and Mart when I reached Branch Mouth. Matias explained to me that there used to be a hammock bridge that crossed the river but got washed out after heavy raining about a year ago. Now, Marvin and Mart escort villagers across the water via their rope line and handy boat so they can mosey themselves into town for whatever reason their heart desires.
On the way to Branch Mouth I met a free range horse and named him Melvin.
Had I drank one more cup of coffee there is a very good chance I would have hopped right up on Melvin and rode him off into the overcast abyss. Sadly, I refrained.
After returning to town I bought a pineapple which I plan to cut up later with a few of my new friends from New York. This experience should be more exciting that the look on the vendor's face at the market when I took this
And I so look forward to it. Of course nothing can go wrong with sharp knives. Right?
We are currently experiencing a bit a rain but it should pass soon at which point I am headed to Cahal Pech, which is a Maya ruin site on the hilltop just outside town. Tomorrow I will head back into Belize City to meet Vincent as he arrives from the states and we head to Placencia.
I must say, this is hands down the most primitive, impoverished and simplistic country I have encountered in my travels, but the people are by far some of the most amazing that I have ever met. When I say primitive and simplistic, I mean it. The place I am staying in right now is literally built around a tree and offers the option to sleep in a hammock on the top level as opposed to a bed. That said, this is hands down one of the best trips I have been on in all of my traveling. Hands down.
I will leave you all with a small list of observations I have made, realizations I have had and things I have learned since arriving-
Sunday is unofficially the national day for doing laundry.
Every Belizian has at a minimum 3 dogs- I think it's a right of passage.
There are more dogs per capita than humans.
Speed bumps are colloquially referred to as "pedestrian bridges".
The importance of bug spray can not be overstated in any way. Ever.
The "laws" in this country are merely suggestions or guidelines, if you will.
You should never be concerned about running out of rum. It cannot happen. Literally impossible.
And finally (most importantly), I present the beer of Belize. You honestly thought I wouldn't find it? Don't even insult me like that.
That's all, folks.
But for real. That's all I've got right now. Go on. Live and do things. Go!












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